3
A Photo Essay by Jerry Olivas
Croatia has so much to supply in every single place, however for hill cities one very particular place to go to is Motovun, within the north, on the Istria Peninsula. This place checks all of the containers for character and appeal. The identify itself is alleged to have derived from the Celtic phrase Montona, that means “a town in the hills.”
You can expertise Motovun in a day, even half a day, nicely, perhaps an hour, however to expertise its full laid-back ambiance, you want a couple of days.
Getting to Motovun: Your Journey to the Heart of Istria
There is not any airport, rail station, or bus station, for that matter, in Motovun. Croatia provides bus and rail companies, however they’re restricted. The best possibility is flying into Pula, renting a automobile, and driving an hour, totally on a four-lane toll street, to Motovun.
You might additionally fly to Zagreb or Ljubljana (Slovenia). Driving from Ljubljana takes about two hours, whereas Zagreb is roughly three hours away. From Trieste, Italy, the drive takes two hours, and from Venice, it’s about three. Ferries function alongside the Croatian coast and from Italy, reaching Istrian cities like Poreč, Rovinj, and Pula, the place you possibly can lease a automobile.
I like to recommend flying to Pula, renting a automobile, taking the toll street north, after which the quick two-lane street to Motovun. Drive fastidiously on the two-lane roads as cyclists usually share the route, and so they have the appropriate of means. Motovun sits on a hill, and its slim cobblestone streets are principally pedestrian-only. Visitors usually park within the well-lit lot on the backside of the hill and take a shuttle bus to the city. From there, it’s a brief stroll over uneven cobblestones into the middle.
Croatia’s hilly terrain means you’ll usually be navigating slopes, so take care with curler baggage and watch your step. If wanted, your resort, B&B, or house host might choose you up on the car parking zone—simply organize a time prematurely.
Stay in Style: Where Comfort Meets Charm in Motovun
There are a couple of selections for the place to remain in Motovun. There is one predominant resort, Boutique Hotel Kaštel, the place my spouse and I stayed, in addition to a couple of B&Bs and flats. The Boutique Hotel Kaštel was an ideal match for us. Staying in a B&B or house would have in all probability meant being on a extra inflexible arrival and departure schedule, probably with tight residing quarters, and the need to replenish on some provides.
The Boutique Hotel Kaštel has solely thirty-three rooms, so it’s small, nevertheless it packs an enormous punch for facilities, together with a restaurant, spa companies, and even an indoor pool. And like with all of our travels in Croatia, the workers have been very good and useful. We particularly loved their secret backyard the place we performed an uncommon sport of Pendulum Bowling, the place a tough ball swinging on a rope is used to knock over bowling pins. This was the proper lodging to relax out and unwind.
Savour the Flavors: Truffles, Wine & Culinary Delights
Grilled fish with white truffle olive oil sauce
Croatian meals is superb, and there’s no scarcity of eating places. Motovun itself appears to be a vacation spot for foodies, with all of the eating places almost full for lunch and dinner. That stated, we at all times appeared to get a pleasant, quiet desk, normally outdoors. Boutique Hotel Kaštel has a wonderful restaurant, Restaurant Kaštel, with terrace seating. We shared the gnocchi as soon as, and it was scrumptious, however all the things appeared good. However, Croatians and guests to Croatia wish to smoke, so attempt to get a desk upwind if attainable.
The specialty is something with native white truffles and, if you happen to don’t like olive oil, sorry, as a result of it’s a staple. Croatian olive oil is exceptionally flavorful. Mostly predominant dishes are served with white truffles and olive oil base sauce. Fresh grilled fish from the Adriatic with white truffles and olive oil sauce was our favorite. As for dessert, it’s best to share right here as a result of the parts are massive. They won’t disappoint—particularly the gelato. Local and contemporary appears to be the rule for all the things.
Croatian Wines
Croatian beer is nice, however Croatian wines are spectacular and really fairly priced. So, in fact, we at all times had a bottle for lunch and one other bottle for dinner, to separate. Motovun eating places principally serve native whites and reds. Malvazija is a superb white and a good selection for lunch. For dinner, a neighborhood purple made with Teran grapes was our favorite with its full-bodied, delicate blended fruit flavours.
The day we left, we made it a degree to cease on the Fakin Winery, just some miles from Motovun, for a tasting of their malvasia, Teran, and different wines. This was nicely definitely worth the cease. A bunch of liquors are served all through Croatia with Motovun providing some native apple brandy that’s good to prime off a night.
Unwind and Explore: The Magic of Motovun’s Medieval Streets
It’s tempting to go on one of many organized excursions from Motovun, like truffle looking or wine and olive oil tasting. Even a go to to a few of the different close by hill cities or coastal communities is engaging. These all seem like enjoyable, and you will get info from the Tourist Board Motovun workplace in the primary sq., just some steps from the Boutique Hotel Kaštel. But we got here to Motovun to relax out and take within the vibes of this picturesque and tranquil place.
We spent our time taking sluggish and cautious walks on the few cobblestone streets, taking in Motovun’s medieval Venetian Renaissance structure and views of the encircling Miran Valley. Day guests don’t arrive till late morning, and they’re all passed by late afternoon. So, early within the day, afternoon, and night, your entire small city is yours. Of course, within the low season, I doubt many go to Motovun.
Motovun’s predominant sq. with freshwater nicely
You don’t want to walk very far in Motovun to find one thing fascinating. It helps to have a considerably curious nature, nevertheless it’s not necessary as a result of each step appears to supply one thing particular. You in a short time begin to step into Motovun’s previous, with your entire Istria peninsula having a wealthy and lengthy historical past with centuries of many adjustments in political management.
There are loads of benches and locations to sit down throughout Motovun and the views of the valleys surrounding Motovun are spectacular. The finest views are from the highest of the about 100-foot-high city’s bell tower; simply over 1,000 steps to the highest. Take it sluggish and simple, and you’ll be in for a powerful, well-earned reward.
Saint Stephen Church, designed by Venetian architect Andrea Palladio within the 14th century, is subsequent to the bell tower and is unquestionably value a go to. It is a pleasant, quiet, and funky place to relaxation after conquering the bell tower. Then you possibly can take a brief stroll on the town wall with nice views of the valleys beneath or be tempted by a few of the native artwork within the small non-public galleries.
Step Back in Time: Legends, Ghosts, and Ley Lines
Mural of Veli Jože
If you might be inclined to analysis, you will see some notable individuals who have lived and labored in Motovun. Mario Andretti, the well-known race automobile driver, was born right here. There is a plaque on the wall of the home the place he lived. The Renaissance music printer and composer Andrea Antico was additionally born in Motovun and quite a few different artists labored and lived in Motovun.
If you want myths and legends, Motovun is full of them. Our favorite right here was the one in every of Veli Jože (Big Joe). The nineteenth—and Twentieth-century Croatian author and poet Vladimir Nazor made well-liked the story of this legendary large and protector of Motovun. He was a very good large, however when he received mad, it was stated that he would shake the bell tower.
Certainly, there are ghosts in Motovun and strolling round at evening is a bit eerie, however that simply added to the enjoyable. I didn’t see any, nevertheless, however definitely, they have been watching us, so we have been at all times on our greatest behaviour. You do get a fascinating feeling when strolling the cobblestone streets that so much has occurred, some good and a few not-so-good.
This is heightened by the idea that Motovun sits on geographic ley strains (additionally known as dragon strains) which could be a constructive pressure for well being and wellbeing. Amateur archaeologists have decided these strains, so they don’t seem to be scientifically verified. Stonehenge and different monolithic websites around the globe are additionally thought-about to be positioned on ley strains.
My spouse and I don’t comply with this metaphysical mind-set, however Motovun undoubtedly imparts a sense of constructive vitality. The day we left, we felt renewed vigour, perception, and a constructive perspective. We already really feel the pull to return to the Peninsula to chill out, recharge, and take within the good karma.
Jerry Olivas lives in Southern California, the place he surfs and cares for his two cats. His current writings and photographs embody Short Éditions, “Tracks and Pie,” New English Review, “Mrs. Tar, Chain Smoker with Style,” and European Travel Magazine, “La Rioja—Wine and So Much More.”