Discover why the Kingdom of Fife deserves a spot on your next Scotland itinerary, with its historic landmarks, cute coastal villages and exceptional gastronomic experiences.
Visiting Fife in Autumn should not be ruled out. While you’ll need to prepare for the possibility of four seasons in one day, the rewards are well worth it. Scotland’s ancient capital, Dunfermline, invites you to explore its Heritage Quarter and beautiful Pittencrieff Park. Meanwhile, the East Neuk’s picturesque harbours and natural beauty have treasures waiting to be discovered. Think beyond Edinburgh and make the Kingdom of Fife your base for a memorable Scottish adventure.
This guide to visiting Fife in the shoulder season highlights my 4-day itinerary, including where I stayed, fabulous places to eat and tips on how to get there. Enjoy!
Forth Bridge in Autumn Sun
About Fife Scotland
Where is Fife Scotland?
Fife is a region in eastern Scotland, often referred to as the “Kingdom of Fife” due to its historical significance. It is a peninsula bordered by the Firth of Forth to the south, which separates it from Edinburgh, the Firth of Tay to the north near Dundee, and the North Sea to the east.
what is fife famous for?
For those with little knowledge of Fife, your mind might immediately think of St Andrews, renowned for its university and golf course, and the iconic Forth Bridges. However, there is so much more to discover in between. Fife is also famous for Dunfermline, the ancient capital of Scotland and the burial place of Robert the Bruce, as well as its cinematic countryside and coastal fishing villages connected by the Fife Coastal Path.
Exterior of Dunfermline Abbey
Why is Andrew Carnegie so important to Dunfermline?
You can’t visit Dunfermline without knowing the backstory of Andrew Carnegie, a figure of profound significance to the town. Born in 1835 in a humble weaver’s cottage in Dunfermline, Carnegie’s family sold their loom and emigrated to Pittsburgh, USA, in search of a better life. There, he rose to become one of the wealthiest men of his time, building a fortune of $480 million through the steel industry. Despite his incredible success overseas, Carnegie never forgot his roots in Dunfermline. His philanthropy transformed Dunfermline in ways that still exist to this day.
In 1883, Carnegie funded the Dunfermline Carnegie Library, the first of over 2,800 libraries he established worldwide. In 1903, he founded the Carnegie Dunfermline Trust, dedicated to enhancing the well-being of the town’s residents by providing access to education, recreation, and cultural opportunities through ongoing support and funding.
Andrew Carnegie Statue, Pittencrieff Park
Things To Do Fife In Autumn
Explore the Ancient Capital of Dunfermline
Dunfermline, Scotland’s ancient capital, truly packs a punch as a treasure trove of history, and with its compact size, it’s easy to explore in a day.
Start your explorations at the Dunfermline Carnegie Library & Galleries (DCL&G), whose modern construction adjoins the world’s first Carnegie Library. This award-winning cultural centre, funded by Andrew Carnegie, is free to visit. It houses reading rooms, artefacts of industrial heritage, timelines about the royal past, Carnegie lectures, and art galleries. The temporary exhibition on our visit was displaying the life and work of Sir Joseph Noel Paton, a Dunfermline-born artist and poet. The detail in his Pre-Raphaelite paintings was even hard to spot with a magnifying glass. Trust me when I say, The Granary Café in DCL&G is the best stop for a bowl of leek and tattie soup and a slice of carrot cake before continuing your wandering of Dunfermline’s Heritage Quarter.
The centrepiece of the town is the Benedictine Dunfermline Abbey and Palace, the final resting place of several Scottish royals, including the legendary King Robert the Bruce, King Malcolm III, and Queen Margaret, all of whom played pivotal roles in shaping Scotland’s history. The colourful stained glass is hard to avoid as the sun streamed through the windows onto the stone inside the nave and the new abbey church.
From one side of Dunfermline Abbey, you can enjoy views of the Forth Bridges on a clear day, while the other side leads you to the lime-washed pink Abbot House, or the ‘pink hoose’ to the locals. This Grade ‘A’ listed building, dating back to the 16th century, is the city’s oldest house, having survived the Great Fire of Dunfermline in 1624. This piece of history is home to a gift shop and Prost Coffee Shop, which also has a cute courtyard garden at the back, perfect for enjoying the warmer Fife seasons. Yes, it does happen!
Back to Dunfermline’s most famous son, a visit to the Andrew Carnegie Birthplace Museum is a must. Housed in the simple family cottage where Carnegie was born, the museum chronicles his remarkable rise from modest beginnings to a global icon of philanthropy. The exhibition is thoughtfully laid out, and it’s staggering to learn about the vast fortune he gave away throughout his lifetime.
Relax in Pittencreiff Park
Pittencrieff Park, fondly known as “The Glen,” is a 76-acre oasis of greenery in the heart of Dunfermline, and it is quite easy to get lost among the manicured gardens and picturesque woodland trails.
Carnegie bought the Pittencrieff Estate in 1902 and donated it to the people of his hometown. His vision was to create a space where individuals from all walks of life could come together to enjoy the beauty of nature, recreation, and community. The Andrew Carnegie Statue stands near the Louise Carnegie Gates, which was erected by the people of Dunfermline as a gesture of gratitude for his generous gifts to the town.
The majestic peacocks have been part of the heritage of Pittencrieff Park since Andrew Carnegie introduced them in the early 20th century from India to add a splash of colour. In recognition of their significance, the peacocks were officially awarded the Freedom of the City of Dunfermline in 2024. The peacock sanctuary in the park, run by volunteers, ensures the safety of the birds, and if you can’t spot them roaming freely, you’re sure to catch sight of them in the aviary.
Once you enter The Glen, it’s hard to tear yourself away. Beyond being a beautiful place to explore, the locals, in my experience, were wonderfully welcoming and quick to strike up a conversation. From the old bird photographer eagerly sharing tips on other nearby birding spots or a dog-walker whose playful pup might have unintentionally scared off the tame grey squirrels I was trying to capture on camera.
Devour the Foodie Scene in Dunfermline
If you haven’t considered Dunfermline a foodie destination, it’s time to think again. The city has several dining experiences that are simply unmissable when you visit Fife, all made even better by Scotland’s natural bounty from both the sea and the land.
Jack O’Bryan’s is a family restaurant that prides itself on sourcing the finest ingredients from local suppliers with compelling stories. Choosing from the menu is no easy task, but I eventually opted for the buffalo mozzarella and roasted fig to start, followed by venison wrapped in serrano ham with mushrooms, and rounded off the meal with sticky toffee pudding infused with Scottish tablet.
Bryan, the dad part of the duo, spent two decades living in Portugal and Spain and, after establishing a chain of restaurants, brought the Iberian flavours back to Scotland. His son, Jack, an award-winning pastry chef, crafts exquisite handmade chocolates that are heavenly true works of art.
Garvock House is a family-run hotel with a fabulous restaurant that is a big hit with the locals for dining and events. The atmosphere is warm and relaxed, with traditional yet chic surroundings. The menu highlights seasonal Scottish dishes, and I couldn’t resist starting with the haggis bon bons, followed by roasted duck, and finishing with a delightful Scottish cheese plate.
Although I didn’t have the chance to try them myself, Dhoom Indian Streatery and Bar and The Haberdashery Bistro come highly recommended.
|| DISCOVER THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN DUNFERMLINE
Sticky Toffee Dessert in Jack O’Bryans Restaurant
Warm Up in Kingsbarns
The first activity option in the East Neuk coastal village of Kingsbarns was the Wild Scottish Sauna. Traditional Finnish saunas aid mental rejuvenation and physical benefits and work well with a cold-water swim. Sadly, a freak weather day put a damper on these plans—I wouldn’t have been surprised if the sauna had taken off in the wind!
Visiting Fife in autumn always calls for a backup plan, and the alternative promised to warm me up in other ways. I was more than happy to settle down to discuss and, of course, taste gin. While the Kingsbarns Distillery materialised in 2013 handcrafting Lowland single malts, it’s also home to the Darnley’s Gin Cottage. Here, botanicals are either foraged or home-grown and distilled in a traditional copper pot, with pure Scottish water added to complete the process. The Darnley’s GINspiration Tour offered a humorous journey through the history of gin, culminating in tasting how the flavours change with tonic and garnishes to create the right mix that works for you.
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Darnley’s Gin Tasting
Visit the fishing Village of Anstruther
Anstruther, a cute fishing village of East Neuk, is home to The Reaper, a first-class Scottish herring lugger permanently moored in the harbour and famously featured in the popular series Outlander. The Fisheries Museum highlights this historic vessel and Scotland’s seafaring heritage.
No trip to Anstruther is complete without indulging in a traditional fish supper, and The Wee Chippy had our attention with a long list of food awards including the Scottish Fish & Chip Restaurant of the Year 2024. This family-owned restaurant sources all its food supplies in Fife or other places in Scotland from haggis and craft ales to eggs and seafood. The fresh, flaky haddock and in light crispy batter couldn’t have been fresher!
A boat tour to the Isle of May would definitely be a big draw for me on a future visit, but unfortunately, the season runs from 1st April to 30th September, which didn’t align with our November trip to Fife. This national nature reserve is a sanctuary for seabird colonies, including puffins, guillemots, and razorbills, alongside its resident grey seals. The island is small but certainly isn’t lacking in history, with the remains of 6th and 12th-century monasteries and three lighthouses, including the oldest one in Scotland. A return trip is on the cards!
Fish Supper in the Wee Chippy
Discover the Crail Trail
Crail is yet another quaint East Neuk fishing village to add to your Fife itinerary. The Crail Heritage Museum, run by dedicated volunteers, highlights the Crail Golfing Society, airfield history, its significance as a medieval market town based on trade from the harbour, and how life has evolved since the 12th century. Take a leisurely wander through the quaint cobbled streets, cobbled streets, admiring the old buildings with Dutch-influenced stepped gables, the historic churchyard and the Crail Pottery shop. Sadly, the heavens opened so the idyllic harbour views were not meant to be this time.
James Lumsden’s tomb in Crail Churchyard
Admire the Forth Bridges
Scotland is home to some incredible feats of engineering, and the Forth Bridges are no exception! These three architectural masterpieces were constructed over three centuries and serve as vital transport links between Edinburgh and Fife across the Firth of Forth estuary.
The Forth Bridge (1890) is the infamous red railway bridge and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Forth Road Bridge (1964) was once the main route for cars across the Forth and is now used for pedestrians, cyclists, and buses. Finally, the Queensferry Crossing (2017) is the longest three-tower, cable-stayed bridge worldwide.
Blessed with a sunny autumn day in Fife, I was in my photographic element, capturing the shadows, low-lying sun, and even the dramatic blue skies with a subtle moon.
Queensferry Crossing
Explore the village of Culross
Culross, or “Coo-Ross” in local pronunciation, is a lovely village on the Firth of Forth, and a must-visit destination for anyone exploring the Fife region. The ochre-coloured Culross Palace stands out in the main square against the backdrop of whitewashed buildings. This late 16th to early 17th-century merchant’s house has well-preserved interiors and beautifully restored terraced gardens to 17th-century life. Although the palace is managed by the National Trust for Scotland, its gardens are maintained by a group of volunteers. Guided tours of Culross Palace are available from April to October.
I’m a big fan of farmers’ markets to support local businesses, so I was happy to see the Culross Community Market on the Village Green. The stalls feature local artisans, including soapmakers, felted fleece creators, and jewellery designers, and delicious produce like Arran cheeses, hog roast, and homemade chutneys.
For lunch, head to the Red Lion, a 600-year-old pub saved from closure by the local community. The cosy, welcoming atmosphere is enhanced by several tongue-in-cheek signage and paintings that made me smile. With a menu featuring locally sourced ingredients, it’s hard to choose between dishes like haggis creggans, freshly battered haddock, or Herdman’s salad. However, the lamb on the specials board caught my eye!
To walk off the hefty lunch, head past the colourful 17th-century houses that line Tannhouse Brae, and up the steep road to the historic Culross Abbey. Founded in 1217 for Cistercian monks from Kinloss, Culross Abbey survived until the Protestant Reformation of 1560 and became a parish church.
Culross Palace Gardens
Visit Aberdour Castle and Gardens
Aberdour Castle and Gardens, one of Scotland’s oldest stone castles, dates back to the 12th century. Initially built as a two-story tower by the de Mortimer family, it was later granted to Thomas Randolph, Earl of Moray, by King Robert the Bruce. The castle expanded under the Douglas family, Earls of Morton, but declined after a fire in the 17th century, leading to its partial ruin. It is now cared for by Historic Environment Scotland.
The interiors of Aberdour Castle are fairly simple, except for the early 17th-century painted ceiling in the east range, which requires you to lie on your back to view it in its full glory. The terraced gardens to the south have been restored, featuring a dovecot, a walled garden and a 12th-century Norman church. Many visitors also come to Aberdour Castle for its connection to Outlander, as several areas of the castle were used as filming locations.
Take a Day Trip to Edinburgh
Now it’s time to venture into Scotland’s capital by crossing the Forth Bridge. Start your day early by boarding a train at Dunfermline Town Station, and in just 30 minutes on a fast train, you’ll arrive at Edinburgh Waverley. First-time visitors will be pleased to discover that Edinburgh is a walkable city, the station is located centrally and you can cover a lot of sights in just one day.
From Edinburgh Waverley, start by visiting the landmarks of St Giles’ Cathedral and the Real Mary King’s Close on the historic Royal Mile, and the Greyfriars Bobby statue and churchyard, a tribute to the terrier’s unwavering loyalty to his owner. Nearby, you’ll find the National Museum of Scotland, a huge collection covering the natural world, science and technology, and Scottish history.
Although I didn’t have time on this trip, Holyrood Park is within easy reach, and I recommend taking the scenic walk to Arthur’s Seat for panoramic views and visiting the historic Holyrood Palace.
Take a stroll along the cobblestones of Victoria Street, considered one of the prettiest streets in Edinburgh, especially when the Christmas lights are in full swing. I stopped in the Grassmarket for a cappuccino break, a street dating back to the 14th century that once served as the site for public hangings. From here, you’ll catch stunning views of Edinburgh Castle, perched on Castle Rock. If you plan to visit the castle, I recommend setting aside 2–3 hours to do it justice.
I strolled around the castle and made my way to St Cuthbert’s Parish Church on Lothian Road, the oldest church in Edinburgh. From there, you could head to Princes Street for some shopping, but since I’m not a big fan of shops, I turned left toward Dean Village, where colourful mews line the banks of the Water of Leith. Walking back via St. Bernard’s Well to the cobbled Circus Mews, through the New Town, Georgian townhouses towards Princes Street where I visited Princes Street Gardens and The Royal Scottish Academy.
If you have time, you can visit the Scottish National Gallery, or visiting the Christmas markets if your autumn trip to Edinburgh aligns with the festive season, before returning to Edinburgh Waverley station. With time to spare, I enjoyed a bite to eat and a Guinness at Maggie Dickson’s on the Grassmarket. This pub is named after “Half-Hangit Maggie,” who worked there before being sentenced to hanging in the Grassmarket in 1724. Remarkably, after being pronounced dead at the gallows, she came back to life in her coffin on the way to her burial in Musselburgh.
Having lived in Edinburgh many years ago, I loved this trip down memory lane guiding a fellow traveller and writer around the city’s sights while discovering a few new ones myself. A day trip to Edinburgh from Dunfermline is absolutely worth it!
Dean Village by Water of Leith
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Planning a Trip To Fife
Where to stay in Fife
Garvock House is a family-owned accommodation set in a beautiful traditional building with a welcoming bar and two elegant dining rooms, where you’re greeted with a warm smile day or night. The well-decorated bedrooms have super comfy beds and spacious en-suite bathrooms for a restful stay. Breakfast is top class, with a buffet table and hot meals made using locally sourced produce. Be sure to reserve a table for an evening meal to fully enjoy the Garvock House experience!
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How to reach Dunfermline
Dunfermline is easily accessible by train, car, and bus. Here are the main ways to reach the city:
By Train: Dunfermline is well-served by the train network. You can catch a train from Edinburgh Waverley Station to Dunfermline Town or Dunfermline Queen Margaret. The journey takes about 30 minutes from Edinburgh.
By Car: If you’re driving, Dunfermline is just a short drive from Edinburgh, located approximately 13 miles to the northwest, and approximately 1 hour drive from Glasgow.
By Bus: Several bus services run from Edinburgh and other nearby towns to Dunfermline. Bus services from Edinburgh to Dunfermline take about 45 minutes.
By Air: The nearest airport is Edinburgh Airport, located about 12 miles south of Dunfermline, for domestic and international flights. From the airport, you can take a train, bus, or taxi to Dunfermline.
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Scotrail from Edinburgh to Dunfermline
How to Get Around Fife
Fife has well-connected transportation options if you choose the more eco-friendly way to get around. However, it will require more careful planning.
ScotRail runs trains through Fife on the Edinburgh-Dundee-Aberdeen route and the Fife Circle Line, which includes stops at Edinburgh, Kirkcaldy, and Dunfermline. For detailed schedules and routes, visit the Scotrail website.
Local buses run regularly, including services to smaller villages and coastal areas like Anstruther and Crail, ideal for exploring the East Neuk. Check timetables on the Stagecoach website.
Driving provides the greatest flexibility for exploring Fife. Scotland’s growing charging infrastructure makes choosing an EV or hybrid vehicle increasingly convenient when finding the best car rental deals with Discover Cars.
Queensferry Crossing and the moon
My trip to Fife was a press trip with Welcome To Fife and Clan Mackenzie Routes, with additional time to explore independently.
PIN for Planning Fife in Autumn
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