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I keep in mind not that way back, Ukraine was one of many solely international locations on the planet open to tourism restriction-free. Of course, it was a really totally different world again then, what with the well being disaster raging on, and all these loopy, difficult border guidelines in place.
While most of Europe shut itself off utterly to tourism, Ukraine flung its doorways open to everybody, Americans included, with little to no necessities.
I additionally keep in mind reserving flights from London, the place I used to reside on the time, to Lviv, in Western Ukraine, initially of 2022, earlier than there have been even talks of warfare looming.
This was a really promising time: COVID guidelines have been dropping like dominoes, and Ukraine had solely lately completed lifting the remaining health-related checks.
Then the strangest factor occurred.
Russian troops began amassing at Ukraine’s Eastern borders, and the subsequent factor I knew, my plans of visiting Ukraine fell by means of as soon as a full-scale invasion was launched.
I noticed myself observing my telephone display screen blankly, watching a collection of horrendous occasions unfold; on the identical time, my flight, scheduled for 3 days from then, bought canceled.
I didn’t suppose I’d be ticking Ukraine off my bucket listing for an extended whereas, particularly when an answer to the battle appears so intractable.
Fast ahead 2 and a half years, and right here I’m, lastly, in Lviv.
I’m one of many only a few vacationers who’re courageous—or perhaps reckless sufficient—to enterprise into war-torn Ukraine whereas a decision hasn’t been reached, and perhaps you’re questioning:
Is it already protected to go to Ukraine, and the way is it that I even managed to enter the nation within the first place when Russian troops proceed pushing ahead with their aggression?
I’m right here to inform you the whole lot I’ve seen, and what I’ve realized from my transient 2-day go to to Lviv in instances of warfare:
First, Why Go To Ukraine In 2025?
There are many a cause why I, as a passionate traveler, would embrace the thought of touring to Ukraine in 2025.
The first I can consider is plainly narcissistic in nature: it’s certainly one of solely three European international locations I’ve but to go to, the opposite ones being a Russian-friendly Belarus and an offbeat Moldova, and I’m unsure about you, however I do not like puzzle maps lacking vital items.
The second cause why is I endure from overwhelming FOMO: the notorious Fear of Missing Out.
Ukraine is a rustic at warfare, and I watched in dismay as bombs showered down within the Black Sea port metropolis of Odesa in current months, to the purpose certainly one of its most traditionally vital church buildings, the Transfiguration Cathedral, had its ceiling partially collapse again in 2023.
Naturally, the human tragedy is immeasurable and needs to be our major concern as this ungodly battle rages on.
Still, I’d argue harm to centuries upon centuries of amassed heritage, a testomony to a rustic’s wealthy previous, and that can’t be so simply reassembled as soon as it is lowered to rubbles, is simply as heart-wrenching.
Lviv is certainly one of Ukraine’s most culturally wealthy cities, generally referred to as Paris of the East, and residential to a UNESCO-protected historic heart full of magnificent Baroque church buildings and lesser-known medieval treasures.
I fearful that the longer I waited, the upper the possibilities an escalation might end in Lviv sustaining irreparable losses: although not as closely bombarded as Odesa, or different cities on the Eastern entrance, it, too, had survived its share of drone assaults.
If you knew someplace like Paris was liable to being severely broken, and even utterly flattened, within the worst-case situation that may’t ever be dominated out, would not you bounce on the alternative to go and see it with your individual eyes earlier than… nicely, it’s not?
I do know I’d.
Why Lviv?
It’s One Of The Most Beautiful Cities I’ve Been In Europe
I suppose I’ve already given you some indication as to ‘why Lviv’.
For starters, it was a massively fashionable vacation spot in Ukraine previous to the warfare, and because the Western portion of the nation’s largest metropolis, residence to over 710,000 folks, it is a cultural heart second solely to the capital Kyiv in significance.
It has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1998, in recognition of its eclectic structure and plethora of richly embellished church buildings and cathedrals: to be extra exact, there are precisely 103 of them.
Which ones left a deep impression on me?
If you are brief on time, I’d go along with the Seventeenth-century Church of the Most Holy Apostles Peter and Paul, primarily resulting from its brightly-painted chapels, and the medieval Armenian Cathedral, the centerpiece of Lviv’s bustling Armenian Quarter.
With an intricately embellished inside and a hovering vaulted ceiling frescoed in mild pastel tones, the 14th-century Latin Cathedral is celestially stunning, and in my books, it was solely rivaled in magnificence by the gold-clad altars of the Bernardine Monastery.
The assortment of Baroque and Renaissance choices right here is actually unmatched, and actually, you may spend a whole week solely exploring Lviv’s spiritual monuments and nonetheless not see all of it, or stop being mesmerized.
Not removed from the middle, there’s a stately Potocki Palace, constructed within the extravagant French model, now a museum housing varied European artwork items––in summer season, the gardens are stated to be relatively nice to walk––and there isn’t any Lviv with out its landmark National Opera:
Situated on Prospekt Svobody, an avenue flanked by Belle époque additions, it is a routinely photographed patrimony for its columned facade and opulent essential corridor.
Oh, and if Prospekt Svobody is the town’s essential vein, one might argue its beating coronary heart is Rynok Square.
Bordered by colourful facades and comfortable cafes and dominated by a centrally-placed City Hall, which dates again to the nineteenth century in its current type, this sq. is Lviv’s most easily-distinguished sightseeing spot, more likely to characteristic on magnets and memento mugs.
If you occur to be in Lviv for the weekend, climbing up the City Hall tower is a must-do: it solely opens on Saturdays and Sundays, and from the very high, you will be rewarded with a panoramic panorama of the dome-dotted Leopolitan skyline.
Alternatively, you may make your manner up High Castle Hill at no cost, the place extra sweeping views of Lviv Old Town await, together with the rows upon rows of communist-era condo blocks that encroached throughout it throughout Soviet instances.
To sum it up, Lviv is downright beautiful, and that alone piqued my curiosity, however there’s one other vital piece of knowledge I intentionally overlooked till now:
It’s One Of The Safest Cities In Ukraine
Lviv is the most secure metropolis in Ukraine proper now, and as a matter of truth, it may be safer than sure Western European cities.
Hear me out.
A giant false impression amongst people who find themselves not following this intently is that every one of Ukraine is one large, Dantean ninth Circle of Hell strewn with battered and bruised our bodies, land mines and World War I-style trenches, the place epic battles are fought on the each day.
If you are a kind of folks, my reply to you is, life is not a warfare film, pal.
I imply, have a look at the images on right here, all of which I took myself: does Lviv look war-torn to you?
Excluding Russia, Ukraine is Europe’s most sizable nation, with a complete space of 233 sq. miles––should you have been to stick it over a map of the United States, it could lengthen from the state of Missouri all the way in which to the Atlantic Ocean, and from Ohio to Georgia.
For a little bit of context, Lviv sits on the far west of Ukraine, a stone’s throw away from the Polish border, and an entire 335 miles from Kyiv, the Ukrainian capital, and an excellent farther 494 miles from Odesa, on the Black Sea Coast.
Considering many of the Russian advances have been centered on the japanese entrance and the predominantly-ethnic Russian areas of Luhansk and Donetsk, in addition to already-occupied Crimea and the broader Black Sea area, Lviv has been largely spared the brunt of the warfare.
Before going, I weighed in all the professionals and cons and ended up deciding Lviv was a low-risk vacation spot:
You’re More Likely To Get Knifed In London Than Bombed In Lviv?
I Beg Your Pardon?
Since 2022, ‘solely’ 68 civilian deaths have been reported within the metropolis, and an extra 276 wounded.
Yes, I agree, that is already 68 too many, however in bearing in mind that, in Kherson Oblast alone, 566 deaths have been recorded to this point, whereas Kharkiv logged in 1,699, and even within the capital area, 1,569 fatalities are reported, I made the knowledgeable determination Lviv was much less harmful to go to.
Between 2023 and 2024, the variety of knife-related crimes in London, England was a whopping 15,016, primarily based on Statista figures.
Some would declare that is apples and pears and not likely an trustworthy comparability, so let’s take a look at Lviv’s crime charges:
According to Numbeo, the present degree of crime in Lviv is a low 36.90, whereas London’s is 64.55, Paris 62.03, and Barcelona 57.29.
You positively will not be blown to bits stress-free by a park in London, except… nicely, by no means thoughts.
But you might need an irregular resident––is that the politically appropriate time period these days?––put a pointy object to your neck and wipe your pockets clear.
You can depend your self fortunate should you’re not, hem, punctured.
In different phrases, you are successfully at the next threat of dying in a mugging incident in Lambeth or Islington, crime-ridden areas of London, than on account of Russian shelling over Lviv.
Based on the info at hand, earlier developments, distance from the frontline, and its standing as a cultural heart with much less navy significance, likelihood is Lviv won’t be struck as laborious as Kyiv, Kherson, or Odesa might.
This doesn’t imply it’s going to positively not be on the firing line:
This Doesn’t Mean Lviv Is Safe
It can be irresponsible and despicably tone-deaf of me to downplay the scenario on the bottom.
Ukraine continues to be a rustic battling an aggressor, and as a part of the involved entity, Lviv has seen various strikes since 2022, with civilian and navy infrastructure focused.
On September 4, 2024, 7 folks misplaced their lives, and 64 have been injured in varied levels of severity following a tough night time for strikes within the residential space surrounding the practice station, the place I arrived myself only in the near past.
I’m telling you this to make one factor clear:
This is a relatively unpredictable scenario, and if somebody someplace decides to push a giant pink button, you will not get a lot of a warning earlier than the sky fairly actually falls down over your head…
Even in Lviv.
All it takes is taking a tram into the suburbs, the place you are way more more likely to encounter ruined constructions, but to be reconstructed following current raids, and newly-added memorials in reminiscence of Lviv’s fallen heroes.
What’s The Vibe Of The People Right Now?
This ties into my subsequent level: what is the vibe of the folks proper now in Lviv?
I shouldn’t have a happiness index to check with, so I’ll depend on my firsthand account solely:
The lengthy bus experience I used to be on to Lviv, the place mostly-Ukrainian passengers have been chatting amongst themselves gleefully, kids have been being their annoying selves, kicking and screaming, with little to no intervention from unbothered mother and father;
And a teen sat subsequent to me blasting podcasts in Ukrainian with out their headphones on (whatever the disapproving appears to be like I shot at them now and again), as if we weren’t all about to formally enter a warfare zone, set the temper for what was to return subsequent.
Ukrainians, at the least these primarily based within the Western portion of the nation, are of their overwhelming majority unfazed by the battle.
During my brief 2-day stint in Lviv I noticed teams of adolescent women with an excessive amount of make-up gossiping idly as they trotted down damaged cobblestones, Starbucks cups in perfectly-manicured fingers, the standard terminally-bored bus terminal girl, caged behind her walk-up window, promoting tickets with the identical enthusiasm I’ve for submitting my taxes, and lovey-dovey {couples} kissing in snow-dusted park benches.
It nearly felt too… regular.
If it weren’t for the younger males casually passing by me with their service uniforms or the warfare posters plastered onto the facet of buildings, you’d hardly be capable to inform there may be even a rustic being assaulted in any respect.
My affirmation got here with the primary air alarm:
I used to be taking footage of myself by Rynok Square, nearing sunset, when all of a sudden sirens go off, and an unsettling male voice emanating from invisible loudspeakers encourages (in Ukrainian) that we search the closest underground shelter.
I would not have a clue what was occurring, had I not requested a 20-something lady standing by the bus cease close to the place I used to be, and her response left me utterly baffled:
After revealing the content material of the alarm to me, that continued to sound loud and clear, she turned to the facet and bought misplaced once more in her infinite TikTook scrolling, till her bus lastly confirmed.
I turned to the facet, and different folks have been simply as unalarmed, both carrying their groceries residence at their common tempo or smiling as they stepped out of a restaurant with associates.
From that second onward, I noticed this was merely their new actuality, and except hit with a serious improvement, the occasional Russian focusing on of constructions within the industrial suburbs doesn’t precisely make them panic.
But then once more, that is Lviv.
It may be a really totally different story in Eastern Ukraine.
How About Prices?
Ukraine has all the time been one of many least costly international locations to journey to in Europe on account of low wages and a decrease value of residing.
I have never been to Ukraine previous to the battle erupting to have the ability to evaluate, although I can say that it’s about as low-cost to go to as Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Moldova, and the like:
Including lodging, meals and transportation, my two nights in Lviv set me again by precisely US$145, in January 2025: meals in native eating places value a median $6-7, tram tickets are just a few cents, and lodge overnights begin from a reasonable $28.
A 3-bedroom condo, Royal Italian model, with a balcony opening up onto the Old Town and nice metropolis views, will value you $44 per night time, and should you do not thoughts splurging just a little, seeing the whole lot is dust low-cost, the 5-star Grand Hotel Lviv Casino & Spa has nightly charges from solely $143.
I stayed at Sunny Hotel, to the tune of $34 an evening, a brief tram experience away from the town heart, and cozy sufficient for a brief séjour.
The rooms are modest however cozy: there is a comfortable mattress with loads of blankets, a central heating system, and a functioning bathe, and on this bleak period, company have entry to a close-by shelter ought to they should take cowl within the occasion of a nighttime assault.
It does its job.
Check Out This Amazing Bunker Restaurant Serving Cheap Food
For a conventional Ukrainian eating expertise in a Soviet-era labyrinthian bunker, Kryivka is the place to go:
As welcoming as Ukrainians are, English audio system in Lviv are positively a minority, which makes ordering at eating places and conveying your wants tougher when you possibly can’t use Google Translate as roaming has failed of a sudden, and I used to be happy to search out English-speaking workers right here.
@vinigoesglobal 📍 Kryivka Lviv Possibly the one restaurant I’d go all the way in which to a w4r zone for 😋 I imply, these pork ribs and wonderful compote?? Definitely definitely worth the threat in my guide 🫣 #lviv #ukraine #easterneurope #ukrainetiktok ♬ son authentic – Vini | Travel Blogger
I ordered myself a giant jug of compote––a conventional Eastern European mushy drink made out of items of pink fruit and contemporary syrup––a basic potato soup for starters, and a pork rib essential, and I could not consider my invoice: roughly US$15, ideas included.
Kryivka might be one of many trendiest, most touristy eateries on the town, so that ought to offer you an concept of what to price range food-wise.
For dessert, head subsequent to Lviv Homemade Chocolate, a widely known chocolaterie just a few meters away from Rynok Square, situated inside a five-storey Old Town edifice that simply exudes medieval attraction.
There’s a restaurant on the very high with a view of Lviv’s many church spires, and their sizzling chocolate is the precise melted stuff.
How I Entered Ukraine
Pardon me.
It simply occurred to me that I have never but detailed my precise journey into Ukraine.
Lviv is just 31 miles from the Polish border, and 245 miles from the capital of Poland.
Buses proceed working between each international locations, costing round $12 when booked prematurely, and carrying principally Ukrainian passengers who’re both going into Poland to make use of one of many worldwide airports to journey, or returning residence briefly to go to household.
Contrary to fashionable perception, the Ukrainian border is not closed: you are allowed to enter as a vacationer, supplied you fulfill the standard visa necessities.
Americans, Canadians, and most Europeans don’t want a visa to enter Ukraine, and they’re welcomed with open arms.
The border expertise itself was really probably the most traumatic a part of my journey to Ukraine, and never for the explanations you’d assume.
The Border Experience
The drive from Warsaw to Lviv takes, in idea, 5 hours––in actuality, you might be sitting square-bottomed in a barely-cushioned Flixbus seat for 8-10 hours, as border formalities are lengthy and traumatic, involving getting on and off the car at the least twice, two passport checks, and at the least one bag screening.
That’s much more enjoyable within the lifeless of winter, once you’re pressured to face exterior, when it is a freezing 26.6°F, as a grumpy-looking Ukrainian border officer goes by means of everybody’s belongings, opening each zipper of each interior pocket, and taking his candy time in doing so.
I suppose it is a good factor Flixbus has free WiFi on this route to maintain you entertained within the meantime.
Ukraine could also be open, but it surely’s not like vacationers are flocking in when bombs hold raining down, so I’m guessing that is why border guards checked out my non-Ukrainian passport puzzlingly.
If you are crossing that border, you are both returning residence from overseas or visiting household, so when requested why I used to be touring to Ukraine as a foreigner proper now, I hesitantly responded, ‘I’m touring as a vacationer’.
The officer did not utter a single phrase, although his split-second, razor-sharp stare deep into my eyes, by means of to my soul, felt like a thousand phrases have been being stated, although his lips did not transfer, and never a single muscle in his stone-cut, stoic face twitched.
You know, in basic Eastern European vogue.
He wished me a ‘protected journey’, and handed me my passport again stamped.
Should You Visit Ukraine In 2025?
If you normally observe security recommendation issued by governments, such because the U.S. State Department or the U.Okay. Home Office, you may need to delay your goals of exploring Ukraine, at the least for now, till the scenario improves:
To the State Department, Ukraine is a Level 4 vacation spot, which means U.S. residents ought to keep away from touring there in any respect prices.
Personally, I’m not the type to observe security advisories completely:
They present me with an even bigger image of what to anticipate, particularly when planning a visit someplace deemed high-risk, after which I shade in stated image myself with extra in-depth, impartial analysis.
The security recommendation pages will not inform you, for instance, that Lviv is in a significantly better place strategically than closely bombarded cities to the east or that the variety of casualties domestically may be very low––so low it could make you wonder if you are safer within the streets of this Ukrainian metropolis than strolling alone at night time in a Western European capital.
The identical could possibly be stated of quite a few different no-go zones globally:
Think Mexico: for years now, authorities have informed Americans to rethink touring to states like Sinaloa and Jalisco, citing crime and gang exercise.
If you have ever set foot in Mazatlan or Puerto Vallarta, you realize it is a very totally different situation than that portrayed within the mainstream media.
Yes, some areas in these particular states are ridden with violence––this doesn’t suggest in all places is unsafe.
At the tip of the day, deciding on visiting Ukraine in 2025 is a strictly private evaluation of the dangers concerned, one you could do your self.
Bottomline
I’m not right here to encourage you to journey to a rustic at warfare: if something, my objective is to supply some nuance, and present you Lviv particularly shouldn’t be a full-fledged battlefield.
Based by myself expertise, the largest menace right here is getting on the incorrect facet of a religious Orthodox babushka, should you by accident take an image with a flash in a church, and interrupt her communion with the Almighty.
Don’t concern the balding grandpa in his Moscow bunker taking part in chess with the prowess of a 5-year-old.
Fear the angry-looking Ukrainian babushka in her flowery huska scarf.
Putting issues into perspective, 0.009% of Leopolitan civilians have misplaced their lives because the warfare began, and 0.03% have been wounded (some gravely).
That does not sound numerically vital.
In this regard, I can perceive the detached, bordering-on-nonchalant perspective of the bus cease lady earlier:
You’ll solely develop into one of many unfortunate few should you’re ever within the incorrect place on the incorrect time, and you may by no means know till it is already occurred.
At that time, there’s nothing you are able to do about it, in any case.
Some Safety Tips For Visiting Ukraine During The War
Going to Ukraine in 2025?
Here are some security ideas:
Enter from licensed factors solely, such because the Hrebenne – Rava Ruska border, the primary crossing level between Poland and Ukraine proper now
Give desire to frame cities, and areas which have direct bus and practice connections out of Ukraine into neighboring international locations, within the occasion of an escalation
No space in any metropolis could be deemed protected, however cultural facilities like Lviv Old Town are typically better-surveilled by Ukrainian forces, and haven’t seen as a lot destruction
If staying in a single day in Ukraine, guide a lodge or guesthouse that’s geared up with an underground shelter
Download the Air Raid Alert Map of Ukraine, to maintain updated with the entire newest developments on the protection entrance, and discover out whether or not there are ongoing assaults in your area
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This article initially appeared on TravelOffPath.com
Opinions expressed listed here are the writer’s alone, not these of any financial institution, bank card issuer, lodge, airline, or different entity. This content material has not been reviewed, accepted or in any other case endorsed by any of the entities included inside the publish.