Adventures in Norway’s fjordlands

The Scandinavian phrase ‘hygge’, the idea of cosying up and getting comfy at residence, has turn into fairly well-known globally over the previous few years. The Norwegians have the phrase ‘friluftsliv’, which is the philosophy of embracing out of doors actions and immersing your self in nature. Where higher place to do that than within the fjordlands. Whether visiting picturesque cities, on a ship cruise on a fjord, driving, mountain climbing or snowboarding within the gorgeous Sunnmore Alps, this a part of Norway has a few of the most spectacular surroundings in Scandinavia.

The ferry slices by the glassy waters of the fjord. Towering rock partitions stretched spectacularly above us. Abandoned farmhouses cling to the cliff faces, and slender waterfalls cascade down to satisfy the tranquil floor of the fjord. We are within the coronary heart of the Geirangerfjord, a UNESCO World Heritage web site, a spot of breathtaking pure magnificence and a sapphire-coloured jewel in Norway’s western fjords.

Disembarking the ferry within the tiny city of Geiranger, we climb the 327 steps, on a walkway that criss-crosses the underside of Storsæterfossen waterfall, to our resort, the very grand Hotel Union. The resort is the place Norway’s Princess Märtha Louise is quickly to tie the knot with American self-styled shaman Durek Verrett. Renovations for the marriage are underway, so, apart from the builder, we just about have the place to ourselves, whereas getting a style of what the upcoming non-public wedding ceremony ceremony and following days of celebrations can be like.

With a day journey on the fjord in a RIB (Rigid Inflatable Boat) deliberate for the afternoon we head from the resort, right down to an previous boathouse on the sting of the water. Wearing insulated dry-suits, we clamber aboard the boat. Heading out we zip, zoom and zigzag throughout the water. The air is cool, crisp and contemporary. The rugged cliffs tower above us because the boat navigates high-speed twists and turns. I don’t assume I’ve ever embraced an out of doors exercise, or my seat, any tighter! This is unquestionably the quickest option to see the fjord.

We cruise deep into the guts of the fjord. The captain cuts the engine. The silence is sudden, solely interrupted by the eerie cry of an eagle and the distant rumble of waterfalls cascading down the mountainsides. It feels as if we’re in a nature documentary, besides that somewhat than watching it on the Discovery Channel, we’re proper in the midst of all of it. We search for the seals and porpoises that usually name these waters residence and take into consideration the cruel lives lived by the individuals who’d as soon as eked out a dwelling on the deserted farmhouses on the cliffs above us.

Two hours from Geiranger and the subsequent cease on our travels, Ålesund may have been taken straight from the pages of a fairy story. A disastrous hearth in 1904 had left a lot of the city in ashes, however rebuilt, Ålesund no longer solely has the world’s best focus of Art Nouveau buildings, however is located proper between the ocean, the islands and Norway’s finest fjords, making it the right base for exploring this gorgeous a part of the world.

We lace up our strolling sneakers and hit Ålesund’s cobblestoned streets. After a brief go to to the Art Nouveau Centre & Art Museum KUBE, to study extra in regards to the city, its historical past and its structure, we climb the 418 steps to the Mt Aksla viewpoint. Braving the robust winds, we glance out on the panoramic views of the town. Next on our agenda is the Atlanterhavsparken, Northern Europe’s largest saltwater aquarium and marine science centre. We arrive simply in time for the every day seal feeding and are completely charmed and entertained by each the seals and their keeper – who knew seals had such amusing personalities?

Ålesund is usually known as ‘the Venice of Norway’, because of its canals and slender streets. The subsequent morning, we resolve to spend a while on a guided kayaking tour of the gorgeous Brosundet canal, which snakes by the centre of city. The colors and shapes of buildings lining the canal are mirrored on the floor of the water, and the odor of espresso drifts tantalisingly out over the water from the small bussing cafes that line the waterfront.

Passing beneath the low bridges that span the canal we are able to hear the chatter of individuals crossing above us. Reaching one finish of the canal, we move beneath a bridge and come out close to the cruise boat terminal. We can see the cruise ships and passenger ferries moored, prepared and ready to depart. At the opposite finish of the canal, we move the tiny crimson Molja Lighthouse, which has stood right here, guiding ships into the harbour for over a century and a half.

Ålesund is residence to Norway’s most essential fishing harbour, so seafood is unquestionably on the menu. On our option to lunch we pay a go to to one of many fishermen, in his vibrant yellow waterproof overalls, who sells his catch instantly from his boat within the canal. We admire his prawns, cod and salmon, however having nowhere to cook dinner it ourselves, we supply on to the discover ourselves a restaurant.

Leaving Ålesund behind, we head out of city. Travelling the winding roads we drive into the Norwegian backcountry, passing by a few of the most dramatic landscapes conceivable. Nordfjord is our subsequent vacation spot – located between Norway’s wild coast and the Jostedalsbreen glacier, the most important in Europe. At Loen, Nordfjord’s most inland village, we resolve to attempt our hand at snowshoeing and sledding. The Skylift whisks us from the fjord’s edge to the highest of Mt Hoven in minutes. Once on the prime it’s evident that my snow abilities are considerably missing! Fortunately, the panoramic views over the fjord under greater than make up for it. Retiring for lunch within the restaurant, perched on the sting of the snow lined cliffs, it seems like we’re eating in a scene out of a James Bond film.

After an evening within the beautiful Hotel Alexandra, we resolve some snowboarding is on the playing cards. If you might be into snowboarding, then the Norwegian fjords are the place to be and whereas Norway won’t be in your radar for ski resorts simply but, there are many them and snowboarding right here is extra reasonably priced than snowboarding within the Swiss or French Alps – insiders contemplate the Norwegian Alps probably the greatest locations on the earth to ski.

We journey to the close by Strandafjellet ski resort, within the attractive Sunnmøre Alps, with its seven ski lifts, 18 downhills and what could also be Scandinavia’s finest free-skiing space. Waiting for the gondola, skiers of assorted ages, however plain abilities, zoom down the slopes in direction of me, carving by the snow with ease, their skis chopping contemporary tracks into the snow. I’m feeling intimidated and by the point I disembark from the gondola and met my information, I’m really fairly glad to see he has snow sneakers and never skis ready for me. It has rained the evening earlier than, and the slopes had been too icy for somebody like me, who hadn’t skied correctly for years. Better protected than sorry. Leaving the downhill slopes to the skilful, fashionable skiers, I waddle off in my shoe sneakers, wanting a bit like a decided penguin.

After an hour or so of trudging about, we attain a line of vibrant crimson deck chairs within the snow. It’s the right spot to take a seat and look out over the brilliant blue fjord far, far under, and with a heat solbærtoddy (blackcurrant tea) in my hand, I resolve I’ll have to come back again and check out the snowboarding one other time. The space is fashionable with mountain climbing fans too, which is one thing I’m significantly better at, so I feel maybe I’ll return in the summertime and go to a few of the trails as an alternative.

For me Norway’s western fjordlands had been the right mix of pure magnificence and superb out of doors adventures. From the serene, misty waters of the Geirangerfjord, to the ski slopes of Sunnmøre Alps or the canals of the charming Art Nouveau city of Ålesund, this a part of the world is unquestionably all about embracing out of doors life – friluftsliv!